Rugged As Iron Works

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Rugged As Iron Works Self-taught blacksmith, metal fabricator, welder, machinist and leather worker. Commissions welcome.

I have been cold-working metal for over twenty-five years and blacksmithing for over fifteen years. I started blacksmithing because I was no longer satisfied with just bending sheet metal and wire. I wanted to make things from steel like knives and tools that you simply couldn’t do cold. Because I started learning how to blacksmith before Forged in Fire became popular and blacksmithing became cool, there wasn’t the same resources available as there is today. Consequently, I am a self-taught blacksmith and this has always been a hobby for me. It took time to acquire the skills, experience and equipment necessary to produce high quality axes, knives and other forged items. It also helps that my workshop is where I go to unwind, get some exercise and make something physical; it’s a great break from a desk job. As I slowly approach retirement, I am also happily looking forward to spending more time pounding hot metal. I lean towards the bladesmith variety of blacksmith and prefer making axes and damascus knives. I have made about 200 axes and hatchets over the last few years, which was unexpected as I started making them only to recycle my overflowing pile of leaf-springs. I make bearded axes as I find the broad-headed style more impressive than a regular axe, and they excel at chopping and carving while still being good for splitting wood. Some of my more recent axes are made from railway rails, because there is just something satisfying about making an axe out of something that used to hold up entire trains. Over the years I have made around twenty knives, half mono-steel and half damascus, as well as four swords. I love making the damascus knives as the patterns that form are elegant, and so interesting to the eye. The coolness factor comes from knowing the knife you are holding is made from two different steels forge-welded together, folded and hammered over and over until the two steels are intermixed in hundreds of layers. Damascus is also a challenge, because while I can make a mono-steel knife with a grinder and a propane torch, you need a really hot forge, the right metal and the know how to make a damascus knife and not all smiths can do that. You also need a really big hammer or a really big arm, preferably both. However, given the large time commitment damascus knives take (10-20 hours) I tend to only make them only by commission. I also make a variety of other things or provide metal fabrication and machining services when requested or as time permits. I make decorative hooks for hanging things, rounding hammers and other blacksmithing specific tools and equipment. I can cast aluminum as belt buckles or hard-to-find tool parts, and brass for knife guards. I fabricate metal artwork, plant stands, and small items by request. I also perform small welding and metal repair jobs at request, although I am not a licensed welder. I take pride in my work, and I offer a limited warranty with all my products. if you manage to break a product through normal wear and use, I will do my best to repair it at no cost or at a reduced rate.

10/18/2026

Slicing, Dicing and Chopping with 9x newly forged and finished chef knives.

These blades feature very-high carbon 26C3 edges of 59-62 rockwell hardness. 7x are San-Mai (sandwich) style with 26C3 cores and wrought-iron cladding while 2x are Kobuse (taco) style with mild steel cores with 26C3 outer jackets.

10/15/2026

Electro-Etching my logo into a batch of chefs knives. One done, eight more to go.

Electro-Etching is a pretty uncomplicated way to put a logo onto a metal object and I tend to etch thin objects like knives where stamping when red-hot might distort it.

I use a low powered DC battery charger from Princess Auto, a bunch of Q-tips dipped in a small bowl of salty water - as salty as it can disolve - and a cricut-printed vinyl logo to limit the etch. I put on the logo, apply the positive (red) alligator clamp to the blade, the negative (black) to the wet Q-Tip end and trace it for 5 minutes with about 2 Q-tips, That's it.

Making tools for woodworkers, so a woodworker that would work wood would be able to hold that wood on their woodworkers ...
10/06/2026

Making tools for woodworkers, so a woodworker that would work wood would be able to hold that wood on their woodworkers bench so the woodworkers could work the wood.

Between test slices and then directing the filming and editing of the wakizashi in action, I took an afternoon to make tools for a woodworkers bench being built by a frequent customer. Rather than go with the usual 3/4" diameter tools, he requested and I was happy to provide 1" diameter tools, including:
Two different types of planar stop, one with a tapered square shank and one with a round shank. Both with serrated ends to grip wood
Three holdfasts with 7.5" reach and 15.5" shafts.
Four bonus mushroom stops with 1.5" round heads on 2" shafts. These are a crossover with welding tables that use these simple stops to position stock and I figured they would port well to woodworkers tables.

The forging was fairly easy after some prep work, which involved making a bending jig for the hydraulic press (because bending 1" even while hot is still a lot of mass to move), and making a 1" hole in a 6x6x2" block of steel to hold the mushrooms in while the press squished the tops down. Sadly I didn't video these so you'll have to imagine the hydraulic press bending and squishing hot steel.

After doing the math, I and the woodworker were very pleased that the whole set cost significantly less to make then a similar 3/4" diameter version with only one holdfast and without the mushrooms.

So if there are other woodworkers out there in need of bench tooling, send me a request and I'll put another set on my forging queue...in robust 1" or even the average 3/4"

And now back to sharp objects.

09/27/2026

Making a Wakizashi part 3, the long version.

Finished blade, forging and sanding seen in part 1 and 2. Sharpened to 8000 grit and polished. Total time: 22.5 hours

Habaki (blade collar) brass, total time: 1.5 hours

Seppa 1 (1st spacer), brass, total time: 30 min

Tsuba (handguard), wrought iron, total time: 3 hours
The Tsuba was forged from wrought iron, machined to shape and then hand chiselled with the image of a medicine ball, at the request of the client.

Seppa 2 (2nd spacer), brass, total time: 30 min

Tsuka (handle), basswood, ray skin, cord and brass. Total Time: 9 hours
The Tsuka consists of a Ho (wood handle) was shaped from basswood to fit the Nakago (tang), covered in Same (manta ray skin), then carefully wrapped in Ito Sageo (synthetic wrapping cord) and tied. Two menuki (ornaments) with medicine ball themes were shaped and included from brass, along with the Fuchi (upper metal sleeve) and kashira (butt cap). The blade is held to the Tsuka by a single Mekugi, wooden peg.

Saya (sheath), basswood, lacquer, brass and cord.Total time: 5 hours.
The Saya was shaped from basswood, with the Koiguchi (mouth) carefully shaped to tightly grip the Habaki, and reinforced with a brass band. The other end is fit with a Kojiri (end cap) also of brass. The Saya has a removable kurikata (K**b) that fits a dovetail groove and anchors the Sageo (cord) which is wound in a traditional pattern. The Saya is lacquered for durability.

Total time: 42 hours.

09/24/2026

Testing the Wakizashi

09/20/2026

Wakizashi Part 3, Assembling the sword

Finished blade, forging and sanding seen in part 1 and 2. Sharpened to 8000 grit and polished. Total time: 22.5 hours

Habaki (blade collar) brass, total time: 1.5 hours

Seppa 1 (1st spacer), brass, total time: 30 min

Tsuba (handguard), wrought iron, total time: 3 hours
The Tsuba was forged from wrought iron, machined to shape and then hand chiselled with the image of a medicine ball, at the request of the client.

Seppa 2 (2nd spacer), brass, total time: 30 min

Tsuka (handle), basswood, ray skin, cord and brass. Total Time: 9 hours
The Tsuka consists of a Ho (wood handle) was shaped from basswood to fit the Nakago (tang), covered in Same (manta ray skin), then carefully wrapped in Ito Sageo (synthetic wrapping cord) and tied. Two menuki (ornaments) with medicine ball themes were shaped and included from brass, along with the Fuchi (upper metal sleeve) and kashira (butt cap). The blade is held to the Tsuka by a single Mekugi, wooden peg.

Saya (sheath), basswood, lacquer, brass and cord.Total time: 5 hours.
The Saya was shaped from basswood, with the Koiguchi (mouth) carefully shaped to tightly grip the Habaki, and reinforced with a brass band. The other end is fit with a Kojiri (end cap) also of brass. The Saya has a removable kurikata (K**b) that fits a dovetail groove and anchors the Sageo (cord) which is wound in a traditional pattern. The Saya is lacquered for durability.

Total time: 42 hours.

09/02/2026

Making a Wakizashi Part Two, the SHORT version

From short shaped steel to hardened, tempered and polished blade. With bonus fire!

The steel for the blade was made from a billet of 26C3 with an outer cladding of wrought iron, a technique called san-mai. These metal are reasonable substitutes for the Japanese steels found in a san-mai Wakizashi, which are not reasonably available in Canada.

Claying the blade is a Japanese technique that results in a differential heat treat, where the back of the blade comes out soft and the edge comes out very hard. The lines crossing the edge help introduce areas of hard and slight less hard that will theoretically limit any potential cracks from propagating.

The normalizing cycles refine the grain structure of the blade prior to quench, help dry out the clay and also remove and stress from forging and grinding. Surprisingly, it also caused the clay to bubble up unexpectedly!

Quenching the blade in Parks 50 Fast oil is a safer alternative to the water quenching necessary to produce a very hard edge and also introduces the curve into the blade. Quenching in Parks 50 turns to be very flammable, far more dramatic than my usual Canola oil and far more than water!

Tempering the blade reduced some of the hardness while greatly increased the toughness, making the blade able to hold a good edge while not being brittle. It also allowed for some straightening. 2-3 cycles of 2hrs are ideal. Testing after tempering produced a hardness of 58 HRC, which will make a very sharp edge.

After that it's all machine grinding and then hand sanding. While you can machine grind to 320 or with some setups 600, it comes with more risk of overheating the edge, destroying the temper and messing up the bevels, hence I started at 220 and ended at 1000 grit. A little bit of buffing and it produced a mirror-finish that makes the separation between the steels just visible.

Next steps are to produce the fittings and then assemble and test the blade.

09/02/2026

Making a Wakizashi Part Two, the long version

From short shaped steel to hardened, tempered and polished blade. With bonus fire!

The steel for the blade was made from a billet of 26C3 with an outer cladding of wrought iron, a technique called san-mai. These metal are reasonable substitutes for the Japanese steels found in a san-mai Wakizashi, which are not reasonably available in Canada.

Claying the blade is a Japanese technique that results in a differential heat treat, where the back of the blade comes out soft and the edge comes out very hard. The lines crossing the edge help introduce areas of hard and slight less hard that will theoretically limit any potential cracks from propagating.

The normalizing cycles refine the grain structure of the blade prior to quench, help dry out the clay and also remove and stress from forging and grinding. Surprisingly, it also caused the clay to bubble up unexpectedly!

Quenching the blade in Parks 50 Fast oil is a safer alternative to the water quenching necessary to produce a very hard edge and also introduces the curve into the blade. Quenching in Parks 50 turns to be very flammable, far more dramatic than my usual Canola oil and far more than water!

Tempering the blade reduced some of the hardness while greatly increased the toughness, making the blade able to hold a good edge while not being brittle. It also allowed for some straightening. 2-3 cycles of 2hrs are ideal. Testing after tempering produced a hardness of 58 HRC, which will make a very sharp edge.

After that it's all machine grinding and then hand sanding. While you can machine grind to 320 or with some setups 600, it comes with more risk of overheating the edge, destroying the temper and messing up the bevels, hence I started at 220 and ended at 1000 grit. A little bit of buffing and it produced a mirror-finish that makes the separation between the steels just visible.

Next steps are to produce the fittings and then assemble and test the blade.

Introducing an easier way to watch flaming blades and glowing steel: YouTube!
08/17/2026

Introducing an easier way to watch flaming blades and glowing steel: YouTube!

Quenching a Wakizashi short sword (with clay for a differential hea...

08/17/2026

Quenching the wakizashi short sword in Parks 50 quenching oil, a wee bit more flame than expected.

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Angus, ON

Opening Hours

1:30pm - 10pm

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