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08/22/2026

PRESSURE

Some horses don't handle pressure, just like some riders don't handle pressure.

It's not uncommon to have a horse that is great in exhibitions or small jackpots but when entered in bigger events they fall apart. Same is true with some riders, rather they over try or just black out during runs.

Some horses thrive under pressure.

More often than not, confidence can be built in horses and riders. It just takes time and making sure to set yourselves up for success.

Be smart about the situations you put your horse and yourself in as you are building confidence.

www.betweenthereins.us

08/22/2026

๐ŸŸข๐ŸŸข๐ŸŸข๐‘ป๐’‰๐’† ๐‘ท๐’–๐’“๐’‘๐’๐’”๐’† ๐’๐’‡ ๐‘บ๐’‰๐’๐’˜๐’Š๐’๐’ˆ๐ŸŸข๐ŸŸข๐ŸŸข

๐—ฃ๐—ฒ๐—ฟ๐˜€๐—ฝ๐—ฒ๐—ฐ๐˜๐—ถ๐˜ƒ๐—ฒ ๐Ÿญ:
๐Ÿ”บI compete as a way to show what my horse knows, it's a show of their skill at that point in their training.๐Ÿ”บ

๐—ฃ๐—ฒ๐—ฟ๐˜€๐—ฝ๐—ฒ๐—ฐ๐˜๐—ถ๐˜ƒ๐—ฒ ๐Ÿฎ:
๐Ÿ”บI compete as a way to get a horse broke, its how they get skilled in their training๐Ÿ”บ

Personally, I align with perspective 2โ€ฆ

The way I see it, if my horse is 100 pole ticks away from being careful with his feet- I'm pulling out all 40 poles on my ranch and heโ€™s going to learn about being careful with his feet that same day. I think showing is very similar. If the horse is 10 shows (3 good shows and 7 bad shows) away from a 75 scoreโ€ฆI'm going to accelerate that. Instead of competing in just w/t classes at show #1- Iโ€™ll also do green horse WTL, open, and maybe a couple rail class jackpots. The horse now has been shown in three divisionsโ€ฆpractically three shows. He might not do very well, but so long as heโ€™s not in fight/flight/freeze mode, heโ€™s learning (which is the goal).

In the next show I do the same, and the next. Now in three shows, my horse schooled almost every single class, oped, or marked awful scoresโ€ฆbut that was never the goal, progress was. Now heโ€™s almost if not as broke as the horse who did 10 shows. A process that could take a whole season is accomplished in a couple months. Furthermore, my horse learns he will NEVER get away with anything in the show pen. It's important to me that horses learn theyโ€™re not safe from a correction in the show pen. This saves a lot of hassle down the road as they get more confident in their job.

Thats just my two cents
What do ๐˜๐Ž๐” think and why?

-Johnny Flores
AQHA Pro Horseman
AQHA Team Wrangler
WRHA Judge & Champion
Acton, CA
818-939-1338
๐˜š๐˜ฑ๐˜ฆ๐˜ค๐˜ช๐˜ข๐˜ญ๐˜ช๐˜ป๐˜ช๐˜ฏ๐˜จ ๐˜ช๐˜ฏ ๐˜Š๐˜ฐ๐˜ญ๐˜ต ๐˜š๐˜ต๐˜ข๐˜ณ๐˜ต๐˜ช๐˜ฏ๐˜จ & ๐˜—๐˜ฆ๐˜ณ๐˜ง๐˜ฐ๐˜ณ๐˜ฎ๐˜ข๐˜ฏ๐˜ค๐˜ฆ ๐˜๐˜ฐ๐˜ณ๐˜ด๐˜ฆ๐˜ด
๐Ÿ“ธ Brooke Louise Creative

08/22/2026

Can you feel it....
The ability to accurately feel what the horse underneath us is doing, or, is saying, I think is the single most important thing happening on every ride.

The problem is that most people are riding in a sincere attempt to not die! Riding a horse to many, is simply a matter of staying on, because they know that bad things follow a rapid and unplanned dismount.

Mix this in with the fact that we live in a very mechanical world where everything is based on system of control computers symply do or dont do. We are at best, challenged in the aspect of being able to evaluate when a horse is soft or if they are resistant.

I have learned to constantly evaluate what the horse is telling me based on what their body is saying. The sense of feel is the most effective tool to communicate with a horse.

Often I ask people the question, what is your horse telling you? Many times, the honest answer of... I have no idea, follows.

Why aren't we as an industry teaching people to learn how a horse feels, and what does that feel mean?

Please understand I'm not referring to a sitting on a couch talking to Dr. Phill kind of feelings. Instead, how is the horse responding to my requests for action, to my body language.

Does the horse understand what I am even asking? Is the horse stiff in the ribs, mouth, hindquarters? Or are they in tune with what I have asked and are even asking the question, what's next?

Maybe we all just need to be more aware.

Maybe we need to move past the kick, jerk and pull mindset.

So I ask you, can you feel what the horse is saying?

"The horse knows when we know, and when we don't know." Ray Hunt

Pc Rachel Ann photography

08/18/2026

๐Ÿ’ฅ๐™๐™ฌ๐™ค-๐™๐™š๐™ž๐™ฃ ๐™๐™ช๐™š๐™จ๐™™๐™–๐™ฎ๐Ÿ’ฅ
๐Ÿ’ฅ๐Ÿ’ฅ๐Ÿ’ฅ๐†๐ž๐ญ๐ญ๐ข๐ง๐  ๐˜๐จ๐ฎ๐ซ ๐‡๐จ๐ซ๐ฌ๐ž ๐๐ซ๐จ๐ค๐ž ๐ข๐ง ๐ญ๐ก๐ž ๐“๐ฐ๐จ ๐‘๐ž๐ข๐ง๐Ÿ’ฅ๐Ÿ’ฅ๐Ÿ’ฅ

โžŸ๐’๐ญ๐จ๐ฉ๐ฉ๐ข๐ง๐  ๐š๐ง๐ ๐๐š๐œ๐ค๐ข๐ง๐  ๐”๐ฉ
A horse is only as good as their backup. A two rein horse should be walked, stopped, and backed up often. For this, youโ€™ll walk forward, slowly pick up your rein hand until the reins make contact, then stop the horse and back up. The first couple times should be done courteously to introduce the exercise. Then the expectation should rise.

Walk and slowly pick up your rein hand, once it makes light contact, bump the horse to a stop without the courtesy of a WHOA. Backup a step or two, change direction, and walk off. The duration of the pull from the start to contact should be two to four seconds. After a couple tries, the horse usually anticipates the cue and stops (and potentially backs up) before the reins are pulled straight.
The goal is to get the horse stopped and backed before the rein is straight.

The beauty of the two rein is the ability of the rider to isolate each set of reins. This should be done with both the mecate and the romal. When doing it with the romal for the first time, the mecates should still be pulled, but very lightly. Supporting the horse is necessary, but they must know how to be pulled on with their bridle.
Having a horse become overly dependent on the mecate is a common and difficult problem to solve.

After the horse is somewhat proficient, they should be asked to do this drill at the warmup and cooldown, in all gaits. It's a wonderful way to help re-establish a good response to pressure in the horseโ€™s body when the bit is pulled on.

As you grow comfortable with the horse and the two rein, doing this drill at a trot and lope is wonderful.

โžŸ๐…๐ซ๐š๐ฆ๐ข๐ง๐  ๐”๐ฉ
In the same way you frame up your hackamore horse by bumping on the hackamore and releasing when the horse gives his head, do that to your two rein horse. Let him feel some contact and give his nose. Framing up is simply when their head and neck come into a better frame. It is not technically collection. It makes collection easier to achieve since the horse is carrying himself better, but by itself, it is not collection. The importance of framing up a horse is in setting up the horse to do well. When their headset is too natural, they risk a hollow back and braced ex*****on when pulled on. A horse who lets you ball him up is at an advantage both in work and the showpen.

Frame up with the bosalita as well as the bridle (later in the two rein process). Early in the two rein process you can shift to a 50/50 hold and work on framing up sporadically before returning to 80/20 for more complicated maneuvers. Framing with your legs should also be practiced. With time and more finesse in the two rein, the horse should be asked to frame up at a stand still, then pushed forward. This way he learns to drive into the bridle and remain collected instead of simply framed.

If they refuse to frame, double or back.

โžŸ๐‘๐ž๐ฆ๐š๐ข๐ง๐ข๐ง๐  ๐ƒ๐ข๐ฌ๐œ๐ข๐ฉ๐ฅ๐ข๐ง๐ž๐
Training a good hackamore horse isnโ€™t all perfect and easy. Most have to be doubled hard a few times and quirted on their butt. This discipline was not spared then, don't spare it now. If the horse wonโ€™t soften him, three rein and double him a couple times. Or use the Squaw Rein hold and double him whilst hitting his outside hip with the romal.

The discipline that made him a good hackamore horse will make him the bridlehorse you want him to be. Same goes for blowing through stops. Sometimes that horse needs to be bumped sharply until he backs up and learns not to lean on your hands. Sometimes he needs to be pushed into his bridle and trot some circles.

There is a bridle in your hands, sure, but there's also a bosalita, and that horse was a hackamore horse first. Administer the lessons with the same swift delivery and tough love.

โžŸ๐‘๐ž๐ฆ๐š๐ข๐ง๐ข๐ง๐  ๐ƒ๐ข๐ฌ๐œ๐ข๐ฉ๐ฅ๐ข๐ง๐ž๐
A good way to know if youโ€™re going to do well in a two rein is being able to correct the horse via use of leg cues. They donโ€™t need to be extravagant cues and high level training. A two rein/bridlehorse should know how to stay between the reins and be held there effortlessly. To work on this, shoulder-in and haunches-in are wonderful drills.

Another overlooked drill is counterbent circles. By counterbending, the horse learns an immense amount of respect for the rein via reinforcement from the leg. It's a more intense targeting of training than shoulder-in. Do not over-train counterbending so much because it can create bad habits in neckreining. The foundation of a neckrein is to look away from it, counterbending doesnโ€™t teach this. Use it to work on respecting the rein and staying between the reins when asked. An example is during a lead departure. If the horse leans into the lead, counter bend him away from where he leaned and retry. The horse will be quick to learn what it is to be in between the reins.

Shoulder-in and haunches-in are great methods to create more elevation, subtly of signal, strength, and proper bend in the horse. But for a more simple approach, a leg yield can do almost the same thingโ€ฆall while keeping the horse more flat. Flat work is better suited for stock work. Do a myriad of elliptical shapes and circles, leg yielding out of them. Exaggerate the arch and be sure the horse moves laterally as much as they do forward, if not more. If they look out of the arc, three rein to get their head in, then release. Teach them what it feels like to be pushed with the inside leg to the outside rein, what a proper arc feels like. This is the foundation of good neckreining. To reap the benefit of Shoulder-In and Haunches-in, simply leg yield with emphasis on either quarter. Doing so, while remaining arced, creates more control of the horse's body. The final benefit to leg yielding is that the horse becomes so soft laterally, he can't help but be soft down the middle. Headset and framing should improve as a side effect.

โžŸ๐Œ๐ฒ ๐…๐š๐ฏ๐จ๐ซ๐ข๐ญ๐ž ๐๐ž๐œ๐ค ๐ซ๐ž๐ข๐ง๐ข๐ง๐  ๐ƒ๐ซ๐ข๐ฅ๐ฅ
This drill is a bit of a โ€œbreaking the ruleโ€ kind of drill and should only be used on smaller bridle bits 2 inches or lower in port height. It's not traditional, nor does it claim to be. If for nothing else, it's just another tool for your toolbox.

For this, youโ€™ll walk a circle and neckrein the horse before plucking the inside bridle rein, then release. Continue the circle. Neckrein again, pluck the inside bridle rein, release, then continue. Never quit the circle and do not spin, your legs will help prevent that. What this exercise is seeking to do is train the horse to actively look away from the outside rein when being neck reined. In theory, three reining does the same, but some horses can be so tough about it, that using the bit can make it clearer. There is a place for almost every technique and tool in horsetraining. This should be avoided with a spade or bit exceeding 2 inches in height as it may injure the palate.

For a more traditional approach, carry out the exercise the same but pluck the inside mecate instead of the bridle rein.

โžŸ๐‹๐จ๐œ๐ค โ€˜๐„๐ฆ ๐ƒ๐จ๐ฐ๐ง
The bridlehorse is a proud animal that holds their head up high. Unfortunately, the trademark high head can more easily lead to brace than that of a more level or slightly above level head. You did everything right, but the horse just doesnโ€™t want to put their head in a good position. Youโ€™ve checked, framed, worked laterally, etc. For these tough ones, you can do a little drill called โ€œLock โ€˜Em Downโ€.

Start at a walk and grab hold of the two rein somewhat snug on the horse. The horse should be held a little bit in front of vertical. Your hand will stay and freeze there, it will not move. This drill would work best with 50/50 pressure. While holding your hand there, work on transitions. Go up and down each transition, if he bounces back off your hand or braces, push him forward into the bridle. As tempting as it is to backup or pull to a stop, just keep driving the horse forward. Within a very short time, the horse learns to pack his head in a more pleasant place.

With a bit of time, the horse will be easier to get their head and youโ€™ll be able to give back their slack. As with anything, there is a point where this can be overdone. Be careful to avoid crossing that line. The goal is to give them their head back, remember that.

โžŸ๐–๐ก๐š๐ญ ๐ƒ๐จ๐ž๐ฌ ๐๐ซ๐จ๐ ๐ซ๐ž๐ฌ๐ฌ ๐‹๐จ๐จ๐ค ๐‹๐ข๐ค๐ž?
Unless youโ€™re lucky, its anything but linear. Some days are great and other days make you question if horses are right for you, and that's normal.

There will be so many days that you wonder if your horse is understanding the bridle cues because their progress is so minuscule. There are going to be weeks you wonder if your horse is depending on the bosalita, but heโ€™s really absorbing all your training. And one day it just clicks, youโ€™ll get a wonderful response that validates all the time invested. But here's the catchโ€ฆit flickers. That validation of progress comes and goes here and there. It's not constant nor is it guaranteed.

But then youโ€™ll see a couple days in a random week just work like magicโ€ฆand then itโ€™ll all disappear again. The progress is often 2 steps forward and 1 step back.

โžŸ๐™ƒ๐™ค๐™ฌ ๐˜ฟ๐™ค ๐™”๐™ค๐™ช ๐˜ผ๐™˜๐™˜๐™š๐™ก๐™š๐™ง๐™–๐™ฉ๐™š ๐™‹๐™ง๐™ค๐™œ๐™ง๐™š๐™จ๐™จ?
There are no shortcuts to horse training, but if there were theyโ€™d be:
๐Ÿ’ฅLong Trail Rides
๐Ÿ’ฅPole work
๐Ÿ’ฅTransitions
๐Ÿ’ฅWorking Stock (cattle, horses, buffalo, etc)
๐Ÿ’ฅChanges of Pace (garrocha, obstacles, new arena, etc)
By integrating each of these 5 โ€œshortcutsโ€ a horse is usually so engaged that they donโ€™t realize the work they are doing and improve immensely because of it. Long trail rides working on transitions can take 2 or 3 hours but be more engaging than a 30 minute arena session on sidepasses and spins. Working stock and/or changes of pace can be so mentally engaging that the horse is working in ways they previously found challenging because they are so mentally stimulated throughout. Pole work and trails help the horse balance their feet and stride in ways no amount of loping circles or checking ever could.

โžŸ๐‘ช๐’๐’๐’”๐’Š๐’๐’ˆ
Take the time it takes to develop your horse in the two rein.
This is a wonderful part of training a bridlehorse, not just the last hurdle before the bridle.

-Johnny Flores
AQHA Pro Horseman
AQHA Team Wrangler
WRHA Judge & Champion
Acton, CA
818-939-1338
๐˜š๐˜ฑ๐˜ฆ๐˜ค๐˜ช๐˜ข๐˜ญ๐˜ช๐˜ป๐˜ช๐˜ฏ๐˜จ ๐˜ช๐˜ฏ ๐˜Š๐˜ฐ๐˜ญ๐˜ต ๐˜š๐˜ต๐˜ข๐˜ณ๐˜ต๐˜ช๐˜ฏ๐˜จ & ๐˜—๐˜ฆ๐˜ณ๐˜ง๐˜ฐ๐˜ณ๐˜ฎ๐˜ข๐˜ฏ๐˜ค๐˜ฆ ๐˜๐˜ฐ๐˜ณ๐˜ด๐˜ฆ๐˜ด
๐Ÿ“ธ Brooke Louise Creative

Befores and afters on a trim! I will be offering only trims at this until my shoeing rig is fully done! As well as ๐Ÿคfarr...
08/18/2026

Befores and afters on a trim! I will be offering only trims at this until my shoeing rig is fully done! As well as
๐Ÿคfarrier work training(mainly to help young or untrained stock)
๐ŸฉทLessons at your facility (mainly beginner-intermediate as those are my favorite!)
๐Ÿคshow/sale prep (includes videos, photos and advertising)
๐Ÿฉทand more!
I have years of experience in many different disciplines and would love provide a drama free atmosphere at anyoneโ€™s barn. If you have any questions please message me through the page or TEXT me at (315)783-4848.
๐ŸคI work on all different equines from minis, donkeys, mules, horses and drafts with all different levels of training!

08/18/2026
08/18/2026

๐Ÿด ๐‘๐€๐๐‚๐‡ ๐‡๐Ž๐‘๐’๐„ ๐Ÿ๐ŸŽ๐Ÿ ๐“๐ˆ๐: ๐–๐š๐ฅ๐ค ๐‹๐ข๐ค๐ž ๐˜๐จ๐ฎ ๐Œ๐ž๐š๐ง ๐ˆ๐ญ

One of the most overlooked but telling indicators of a broke and confident ranch horse is its walk. A ranch horse should march forward with intent, not just amble or drift along.

A good walk:
โ€ข Covers groundโ€”this matters on a real ranch
โ€ข Shows forward thinking and willingness to go to work
โ€ข Helps your horse mentally engage before you ever get to faster gaits

When a horse walks into the pen with purpose, it sets the tone for the whole ride. And when youโ€™re on the ranch, it gets you where youโ€™re going efficiently.

๐Ÿ“˜ Ready to read about ranch horse classes? Grab your copy of Ranch Horse 101 to learn the fundamentals. Think class descriptions, tack, attire, sample patterns and show day checklists along with real show pictures. Get the e-book here to help you get started: https://payhip.com/b/63Wuz (Proceeds benefit WCRH)

Ready to show ranch horse? Join us in Temecula, CA for a fun, welcoming show season with many learning opportunities and divisions for all levels of horse and rider: https://westcoastranchhorse.com

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