GVAconstruction

06/12/2019

Replacement Windows can be tricky. This video will show you all the steps to replace your existing windows with new windows, including some tips for making a...

05/27/2019

Kevin & Taylor

05/19/2019

Risers and Treads

In both DCA 6 and the 2015 IRC, requirements for riser height and tread depth are 7 3⁄4 inches (max.) and 10 inches (min.) respectively, though local requirements vary. These measurements are taken at the leading edge of the treads.

To me, the more important safety issue is that the riser heights and tread depths be uniform. Risers or treads that vary more than 3⁄8 inch between any two risers or treads create a fall hazard, because people become accustomed to a certain feel when using stairs. A variance can cause someone to lose balance and fall. The most common location for a large variance between riser heights is at landings.

A 2x12 stringer has a maximum unsupported span of 6 feet. These stairs are likely to deflect and cause the stringers to either pull loose from the framing or shear along the grain.
A 2x12 stringer has a maximum unsupported span of 6 feet. These stairs are likely to deflect and cause the stringers to either pull loose from the framing or shear along the grain.
Overcut notches weaken a stringerand may cause it to fail. The minimum recommended depth of the uncut portion of the stringer is 5 inches, as measured to the closest saw kerf, and not the notch itself.
Overcut notches weaken a stringerand may cause it to fail. The minimum recommended depth of the uncut portion of the stringer is 5 inches, as measured to the closest saw kerf, and not the notch itself.
Stairs that are higher than 30-inches off the ground are subject to the same guidelines as railings, which means that open risers that permit a 4-inch dia. sphere to are greater than
Stairs that are higher than 30-inches off the ground are subject to the same guidelines as railings, which means that open risers that permit a 4-inch dia. sphere to are greater than
Many deck builders seem to be unaware that open risers allowing a 4-inch-diameter sphere to pass through are not permitted on stairs that are more than 30 inches above grade (or the floor below). This is a common defect in older decks, but I often find it on newer decks too.

Here are the recommended standards for deck stair guards, which are subject to the same requirements as interior stairs.
Here are the recommended standards for deck stair guards, which are subject to the same requirements as interior stairs

05/18/2019

Plumb cut. For maximum plumb-cut bearing and fastening area, the ideal stringer position has the top tread even with the deck flooring, which allows the stringer plumb cut to fully bear on the rim joist or beam. This location makes installing the stair guards and handrails more difficult, however, so it’s more common to see the top tread dropped one riser below the deck flooring. Unfortunately, I’ve found that this often leads to unsafe attachment details with inadequate bearing that can allow the stringer to shear along the grain.

Y Dropping the stringers without also installing a dropped header can lead to a situation like this, where the stringers have inadequate bearing on the rim joist.
Dropping the stringers without also installing a dropped header can lead to a situation like this, where the stringers have inadequate bearing on the rim joist.
The risk is that the stringer will split along the grain. This photo is new construction that was approved by the local building inspector.
The risk is that the stringer will split along the grain. This photo is new construction that was approved by the local building inspector.
Stringer attachment. One of the most serious deck stair defects is a poor connection between the stringers and the deck. Failure at this important connection is common, particularly when the stringers have been nailed to the framing, because nails are subject to withdrawal.

For example, I often see stringers fastened to a dropped header with nails driven into the stringers’ end grain. If the stringers are also bearing on—but not attached to—a landing and have no other attachment to resist lateral loads, the nails will do little to prevent the stringers from pulling away from the framing. If the stringers are bearing on the ground, the problem is even worse.

Toe-nailed stringers are less susceptible to withdrawal, but the connection can still fail as the framing ages and is structurally compromised.
Toe-nailed stringers are less susceptible to withdrawal, but the connection can still fail as the framing ages and is structurally compromised.
Attaching stringers to a dropped header with nails as shown here is a risky fastening method because nails driven into lumber end grain have minimal resistance to withdrawal.
Attaching stringers to a dropped header with nails as shown here is a risky fastening method because nails driven into lumber end grain have minimal resistance to withdrawal.
At a cost of a few dollars each for the connectors and recommended fasteners, the most cost effective way to hang a stringer is with metal hardware. But this one - a Simpson Strong-tie LSU26Z - has been installed incorrectly, since the stringer isn't fully bearing on the connector seat. Another red flag: drywall screws instead of approved connector fasteners have been used to fasten the connector to the framing.
At a cost of a few dollars each for the connectors and recommended fasteners, the most cost effective way to hang a stringer is with metal hardware. But this one - a Simpson Strong-tie LSU26Z - has been installed incorrectly, since the stringer isn't fully bearing on the connector seat. Another red flag: drywall screws instead of approved connector fasteners have been used to fasten the connector to the framing.
Sometimes the stringers are toenailed to the deck framing, an attachment method where the nails aren’t quite as subject to withdrawal. Sometimes this method works—if an adequate quantity of the correct nails is properly installed (there are rules about how to correctly install toenails), and if the wood and the nails maintain their integrity over the life of the deck. That is a lot of ifs.

To avoid extra work and eliminate drop headers, end-nailing, toenailing, and other questionable stringer connection methods, DCA 6 recommends the use of metal hardware specifically designed for stringers, such as Simpson Strong-Tie’s LSCZ or LSSU connectors. At a cost of a few dollars each for the connectors and recommended fasteners, this is the most cost-effective stringer connection method.

But in order to provide both the vertical and lateral support for the stringers, these connectors must be installed according to manufacturer’s instructions. For example, stringers should fully bear on the connector seats. Screws are not allowed—unless specifically allowed by manufacturer’s instructions, and then only manufacturer-supplied screws may be used. Deck screws and drywall screws are not allowed. Finally, the round and oblong holes are there for a reason: They are saying, “Put a fastener here.”

Stringer construction. Almost all stringers on deck stairs are cut stringers. The two most common cut-stringer defects that I see are overspanning and overcutting.

The minimum recommended size for a deck stair stringer is 2x12, which has a maximum recommended unsupported span of 6 feet. Often this maximum span is dangerously exceeded, resulting in overspanned stringers that will deflect and cause the connection at the deck to pull loose and fail. In some cases, overspanned stringers may shear along the wood grain.

The minimum recommended depth of the uncut portion of the stringer is 5 inches. The measurement is to the saw kerf, and it’s common to find stringers with dangerously overcut notches. Stringers that are overcut have the same potential failures as overspanned stringers. In both cases, they can be repaired by installing intermediate support posts

05/16/2019

Stringers

Before getting into deck stair defects, let’s look at how DCA 6 recommends that stairs should be built, starting with the stringers, risers, treads, landings, and the components that support them (Figure 1). When I’m evaluating a deck stair, this is where I start.

Stringers typically have two bearing points, with the plumb (vertical) cut bearing on a rim joist or on a beam, and the seat (horizontal) cut bearing on—at minimum—a solid landing. To help resist both vertical and lateral loads, stringers require proper support and attachment at these bearing points. Without proper support, vertical loads (gravity) can pull the stringers down from their bearing points, while lateral (horizontal) loads can pull the stringers away from their bearing points. Most builders worry more about vertical loads, but lateral loads are also a frequent cause of a deck stair failure: The fasteners withdraw from the bearing point, then gravity takes over.

Shown here are recommended standards for deck stair stringers, risers, treads, landings, and the components that support them. If you are building deck stairs differently, you may be building unsafe stairs

05/15/2019

05/14/2019

Common Deck Stair Defects

Shown here are recommended standards for deck stair stringers, risers, treads, landings, and the components that support them. If you are building deck stairs differently, you may be building unsafe stairs.
Indoors or out, stairs are one of the most dangerous systems anywhere in a building. Falls involving stairs can result in serious personal injury; that’s where the big money is for attorneys. On a deck, stairs are third (behind ledger detachment and guard failures) in terms of number of injuries suffered.

Stairs Built Right

Interior and exterior stairs share almost all of the same requirements. If anything, deck builders should be more careful about applying current safety and structural standards to exterior stairs because they are subject to environmental conditions that may exacerbate safety and structural problems.

But which standards apply? It’s best to think of building codes as minimum standards, not as the standards for contractors who build quality decks. Keep in mind that even when a deck complies with a local building code, the code official who inspects it is not responsible for ensuring that the deck is safe.

To improve safety and to reduce liability risk, deck builders should follow current best practices as presented in the latest edition of DCA 6, the American Wood Council’s Prescriptive Residential Wood Deck Construction Guide. Accordingly, I define “defect” as a failure to comply with these best practices. In fact, since a deck that passes local code inspection may still be unsafe, I believe that DCA 6 should be the standard to which all decks are built regardless of what might be allowed by local building codes

05/07/2019

5. Mix in metals

Metals including those on faucets and handles, a soap dish, wall sconces, and waste cans will add a luxe look to any black bathroom.

Plymale says that gold finishes, for example, will bring in some warmth and offset the coldness of black surfaces. Pewter, gunmetal, and copper accents are the other hot metal tones of the moment.

05/06/2019

4. Bring in texture


Gray-Plaisted also loves the combination of natural wood cabinets with greenery like succulents in a black space. To add texture, use accessories like a seagrass hamper, rattan baskets for towels, and a simple woven mat under foot.

05/05/2019

Light it right:

Lighting is the key to pulling off a black bathroom. A poorly lit powder can make guests feel uncomfortable, but as long as there's ample lighting, they'll never feel like they've stepped into a cave.

Overhead lights and wall sconces are especially important if the surfaces you've chosen are matte or nonreflective, say DeMorrow.

Plymale suggests bulbs with a warm glow in a black bath so as not to create stark shadows.

05/04/2019

Another satisfied customer.

Before and after pictures.

05/03/2019

Combine paint and paper

A powder room is one of the best places in your home to experiment with wallpaper, and Plymale recommends trying a primarily black graphic print.

If you're not one for patterns, she suggests a matte black wall paint with warm undertones to keep the room intimate and cozy.

Gray-Plaisted says black-painted walls look especially nice with white sinks, toilet, tub, and subway tile. The balance of black and white can help you pull off the look—and if you're tired of it after two years, just repaint, she says.