Heating and Air LLC

Heating and Air LLC We are a HVAC company who specializes in identifying issues with our customers heating and cooling equipment.

Our main objective is creating comfort for our customers. We repair, maintain and replace systems with a focus on creating value for our customer

06/15/2022

Can’t be an interior designer 😂

07/31/2021

Well then......Thoughts have been coming as to what I can do to help people with their HVAC needs.
Today we will try to gain some idea of the what and how to do simple troubleshooting. Naturally everything posted here should be verified by someone familiar with how these systems work.

With all that in mind.....you just arrived at home to a "warm" house. Obviously there is something wrong as it was cool and comfortable when you left. What is the first thing to do?
Turn it off.
This is always the first step. If it is not cooling all that is happening by leaving it on is you are burning power and possibly, depending on what has gone wrong, destroying expensive parts.

What comes next?

First step is to turn the fan to on at the thermostat. System off. Fan on. Does the indoor blower work? Is air moving out of the registers?

If not there are only a couple of common things that can be wrong. First would be the blower motor or capacitor have failed. The other is the system has created a "block of ice" out of the ev***rator coil. Neither is a good thing. And naturally if the blower motor has failed the coil will be a block of ice anyhow.

unless you are very comfortable working with machinery etc. Now would be the time to call a professional.

What comes next?

The next step would have to mean the blower is running and there is air flow. Assuming these are true, turn the system back on and hurry outside to the condenser.

Is the fan on top running? Good. Touch the two "pipes" running into the house. One is about 3/8 of an inch the other is ~3/4 inch. The small one should be warm. The bigger should be cold. If not there is something wrong with the compressor, capacitor or the refrigerant levels.

No matter what if the system is not cooling turn it back off as soon as possible to reduce the possibility of ruining other parts.

Questions?

06/20/2021

Texas summer is well on it's way to being here. Upper 90's with crazy high humidity.
For all those with a system older than 4 or 5 years it should be checked before the real heat gets here. Now it the time to find out if there is a problem in the wings.
Keep in mind most of the system failures are caused by low refrigerant levels. Not only does the system not work as well....running longer to do the same amount of work.....it also is very hard on the compressor. Kind of like draining the coolant and oil out of your car and trying to drive it.
The oil in the system mixes with the refrigerant and is carried through out the entire system. When all is well the v***r returning to the compressor is carrying the oil back with it and it is at a cooler temperature. Regardless of which company you get to check it this is a yearly inspection after a system reaches ~5 years of age.
A couple of things to consider when they come to check your system. Do they have a thermometer with them? Although the gauges show pressures they are also thermometers. Between the two there are always clues as to how well the system is working and if there are issues to be looked into.

05/03/2021

It has been a very long time since my last post. I apologize for the time away......but, I am fairly certain it will happen again.
Spring is here. Time to do the dreaded "tune-up on your A/C system. Clean the condenser. Check the charge. Look over all the other parts that will make it work as efficiently as possible.
Will this guaranty there will be no issues?
Not hardly. But it will find things like a bad connection in the high voltage side of the system. Reducing wear and tear on the compressor and motors. It will also find systems that have developed a leak.
Low refrigerant is the single most common reason for a compressor to fail. The recirculating refrigerant and oil does not get returned to the compressor when the charge is low. Causing two issues. No lubrication for the moving parts. And higher temperatures at the compressor.

Kind of like draining the water and oil out of your vehicle then expecting it not to break when you drive it.

09/17/2019

Earlier today I saw this. It fits so well for those of us who love others with all our hearts and want to do what is "right" each and every time.

“Work is love made visible.''
Kahlil Gibran

09/16/2019

Oh Nooooooo
It has been weeks....or at least multiple days. I get busy and time is short. Been wondering somedays if my posts, when I do post them, even reach anyone. Was kind of hoping there might be questions I could answer. Then again I probably don't have this set up correctly for than.

Where are we at today?
Fall is coming. Heaters for those who live in the "great white north" are fairly important. For those of us in the "brown scorched south", actually not too bad, heat may never be an issue. It gets cold for a few days but the clear skies and sunshine usually does a pretty good job.
Most who have heating systems less than 20 years old are maybe wondering if they should be "checked" before heat season gets here.
Part of the issue is the igniter. "I" can come out, inspect your system, proclaim I prayed over it and the next day the igniter fails. Mostly the "modern" heating systems have little or no maintenance to be done which will actually keep them from failing when you want them the most. The single exception to the rule being a heat pump.
Is it still a good idea to have your system looked at?
Yes if for only something may have failed at the end of last season. Or a spider or other bug may have built a nest where it will disable the operation.

07/14/2019

Well then.......
Where are we at today?
Today I would like to talk about SEER (Seasonal Energy Efficiency Rating).
Not a lot to talk about the SEER rating of your equipment is pretty simple. 1 SEER = 1 watt of power burned for each BTU (British Thermal Unit) of heat removal.
How does this work?
A 12 SEER unit burns 12 watts of power for 12 BTU's of heat removal. Obviously 20 SEER is the same ratio.
If all else remains static. It will be just under 50% less costly to keep your home at the same temperature with a 20 SEER system as it will be with a 12 SEER.
But....always have to have one of those don't we...... a 20 SEER system will run at a load level equal to the load on your home. If your home only requires a 1 ton unit to do the work a 20 SEER system can operate at a 1 ton level.
Now the real savings start.
For example in my home we had a 10 SEER system. Our average cost for a month of power in the summer was ~$600 per month. After installing a 21 SEER inverter system our average monthly bill dropped to ~$170.
The system I installed will operate at 1% increments from 20% of capacity (just under 1 ton) to 110 % in 1% increments. When the ambient (outside) temperature is lower it runs as though it is a smaller system.
Naturally it is not the "cheapest" system to install. But assuming a 50% ish savings on your electric bill how long before it pays for itself?

06/21/2019

We are going to attempt to add content weekly. This may or may not happen as sometimes work gets in the way.😮
Those who know me also know I am not what most would call a salesman. As such I may not get to sales related information unless someone asks a question.

Today I want to talk about basic maintenance and check ups.

If your system is over 5 years old, warranty or not, it should be checked every spring ( temperatures should be above 75) for proper refrigerant levels and operation. This is one of the single most important things you can do for your A/C system. A leak can and does not only reduce the efficiency but can cause major components to wear out or break. The sooner a leak is identified the better for you and your pocketbook.
Most regular maintenance can be done by the owner. It does not take any special tools, in most cases. The filter should be checked at least once a month. If it is beginning to change color it is probably time to change it. A dirty filter will cause multiple issues.
If it becomes dirty enough to reduce airflow the system could "freeze" up. As the system is designed to operate at a given air flow the reduction can cause the ev***rator coil to cool below freezing which will then cause it to slowly seal over with ice.
Also a dirty filter, after a point will collapse allowing dust, dirt and sundry other things to flow through the furnace ev***rator coil and duct work. the build up of contaminants can also cause the system to freeze, lack of air flow, the blower motor to overheat, and other forms of destruction related to the type of contaminant.

The condenser should be hosed off at least 3 times during the cooling season. This removes dirt, bug nests, grass and other vegetation. The air flow through the condenser is responsible for removing the heat the refrigerant has pick up from inside your home or business. If it is dirty the system will not work as well as it should.

I would also say you should wash and polish your system a few times a year. J/K But there are those who do!

Thanks for reading.

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