DhD Fabrication

DhD Fabrication I'm a mobile welder specializing in automotive fabrication with in-house machining capabilities

Stainless exhaust repair for a diesel powered boat. We replaced the 45 in this area due to the existing being heavily co...
07/11/2026

Stainless exhaust repair for a diesel powered boat. We replaced the 45 in this area due to the existing being heavily corroded and cracking. The fl**ge at the base of the water cooler was also cracked all the way around so i got that welded back up as well.

About a year ago (maybe more) i made a jig for an OEM  location (avenier) turbo manifold for my sr20de+t. At first i bou...
07/06/2026

About a year ago (maybe more) i made a jig for an OEM location (avenier) turbo manifold for my sr20de+t. At first i bought all the weld els in 1.5" and started playing with it for a while until i determined it simply wasn't possible to do in that size at that location.

A few months back i ordered all the same bends but in 1.25". It was still going to be tight but there was just enough room to sneak #3 around.

To top it off, i decided sequential and as close to equal length as i could get with the shortest runs possible. This has literally been about a month of tinkering in my free time to get an idea of how to run it.

I don't have any of the fancy mock up tubes nor do i have the software to CAD it. I just started cutting and tacking, breaking, twisting, tacking and so on. I do have a lathe so at least the straight pieces are easy to cut to exact size and bevel.

I got the fitment pretty close to what i wanted but needed a rotary positioner that i could purge thru which took a good amount of time to make as a side project. There where a lot of side projects to get all the fixtures i needed to make my life a little easier.

After i got everything fitted, the welding portion went pretty quick for the runners. A little fine tuning and they were ready to get welded to the collector and the head fl**ge. I welded the collector to the but of 2"bend and t25 flags. I also machined the collector fl**ge flat after i made it, but i still need to machine the head fl**ge flat after i port it a bit.

It's pretty much done though. I've been wanting to make this manifold for quite some time and it's exciting to get it on the car.

Material is all 1.25" sch10 304 stainless fully purged. All the runners are as close to 14" as i could get. I did get them within about a half inch of each other and seqential, so it should be a great improvement over the cast manifold.

Next one i do, I'm moving the turbo to a better spot. This was a mix of wanting to keep the rest of the plumbing i have as well as "to see if i could".

What a pain. The transition from lift gate to floor was totally screwed up from years of driving the pallet jack over it...
02/28/2026

What a pain. The transition from lift gate to floor was totally screwed up from years of driving the pallet jack over it. I didn't take any pics of the before but it was basically vertical in the center, to the point of the electric pallet jack not even being able to drive over it anymore.

A good amount of time was spent heating and beating it to get it somewhat straight and down. I added some flat bar welded to the transition and countersunk screws thru the aluminum floor into the whatever plastic material under.

Looks like it will work out good enough to get this truck back into service. I've done quite a few of these bobtail trucks and it seems like they are all a little different in their construction. Some are pretty easy to fix, some are like this one. Lol

T25/T28 5 bolt to 3" v- band adapter. Purged stainless. I have a full 3" stainless exhaust kit, so I'm going to make a n...
02/27/2026

T25/T28 5 bolt to 3" v- band adapter. Purged stainless.

I have a full 3" stainless exhaust kit, so I'm going to make a new exhaust for the turbo car. It should be better than the 2.5" that's on the car currently.

I built the 2.5" for the car when it was still na so i added a bunch of resonators and such to get the volume down a little bit.

With the turbo, I'm going to get the restriction down a bit so it minimizes back pressure and hopefully sounds pretty good

An aluminum guard rail / sprayer mount repair on a hydroscape truck. It was broken pretty bad on both sides. I added the...
02/27/2026

An aluminum guard rail / sprayer mount repair on a hydroscape truck. It was broken pretty bad on both sides. I added the gussets for more surface area of weld.

I was going to do fish plates but the tubes were varying thicknesses so i would have had to bend ¼" 6061 in the field.

This is an automated rollout wheel. I've been looking at the standard (manual) ones for a while but they are a little ex...
01/17/2026

This is an automated rollout wheel. I've been looking at the standard (manual) ones for a while but they are a little expensive. Motorized ones are way out of the budget.

A few years ago i made a rotary table for the mill using an old flywheel from an sr20 and some large bearings.
I recycled some of the parts of that project into this one, but i needed to make some modifications to make it work vertically instead of flat on the table. Mostly it needed a new center hub design as well as one standard and one thrust bearing.

I went with this style lathe head for a few reasons. It's slim and therfore lighter. It has a large vareity of grip range. And finally it didn't require any keys to open/ close it. This final reason turned out to be not so great, but it is what it is. Just have to lock it out to open/ close it.

After i got the lathe head mounted to the flywheel, i was like hey let's use these teeth....Instead of having a bolt to lockout the head from turning like most rollout wheels do, i made a little chunk of flat gear with a left hand thread mechanism to lock the wheel out.

I've been playing with stepper motors and controllers on my other welding positioner project, so i got more parts. I had the drive gear from a starter that i initially used for the rotary so i got a stepper with that size bore. I made a mount for the motor with adjustability for back lash, and got it running both forward and backward with speed control (very slow stable speed being the requirement)

In trying to come up with some fancy way of getting the pipe level, i did a temporary bolt adjuster. I realized that i could also flip the chuck up flat for a mobile horizontal positioner as well as the current vertical. So the temp bolt adjuster is now good enough. Not fancy but functional.

I then had to make the lockout arms to hold the thing up flat and not come crashing down. It's heavy. The arms took a little trial and error and a bit of computer aided guessing. I only had to scrap one part! Lol. But in the end i got it to clear "down" and fully lock it "up".

I also made an arm that goes into the tow hitch for this thing to sit into. I didn't take a pic of that but it's just a big 90 arm to clear the lift gate of the armada (weld rig)

I did a bench test and it will work on 12vdc, but the motor really wants 24 to 36vdc. I have a power supply that I'll wire up to 110vac, but i could theoretically run it off the car battery.

All and all, it took some time but it works great. I used it in the shop to weld up axles and fl**ges on my son's go kart project and it was awesome. I can't wait for the next pipe or exhaust job so i can really test it out.

Adjustable width roller wheels to sit atop my pipe stands. I only had enough material to make one set of rollers for now...
01/17/2026

Adjustable width roller wheels to sit atop my pipe stands. I only had enough material to make one set of rollers for now, but I'll make a 2nd set in the future.

I made the roller so it locks into the head of the pipe stand. It's so annoying when you accidentally knock them off. Lol

Diesel fuel tank repair. It had a crack at one of the fl**ges. Customer asked if i could weave over all the welds on the...
01/17/2026

Diesel fuel tank repair. It had a crack at one of the fl**ges. Customer asked if i could weave over all the welds on the fl**ges. Done and done

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Wildomar, CA
92595

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+19515798619

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